The Dhara Devi in Chiang Mai Thailand Redefines 'Luxury'
Laveena and I feel infinitely blessed to have had the opportunity of repeatedly traveling to beautiful countries with stunning landscapes, fascinating cultures and exotic cuisines. We are equally blessed to have experienced living in some of the most luxurious hotel properties in the world.
While each property has it’s own specials to showcase and often has their staff going out of their way in the name of high quality 7 star hospitality, we find that in today’s competitive market, most luxury hotels have risen up to the occasion of pampering their customers on every visit. Be it a special pillow menu, information of a regular guest's newspaper preference, knowledge about a guest's food allergies, room type preferences and one of my favourites, being addressed by your last name throughout the hotel property including at the hotel restaurants, the lobby, the pool, the gym, the spa or even by the bell captain and the doorman.
While researching our Christmas and New Year holiday plans for 2015, I stumbled upon the fabulous Dhara Devi hotel in Chiang Mai. I read that Maria Sharapova, absolutely loved the hotel and listed it as one of her favourites. This luxury hotel has also played host to the likes of Prince Albert of Monaco, Violinist Vanessa Mae, tennis player Venus Williams and Hollywood stars Sylvestor Stallone and Angelina Jolie. If such well known celebrities travelled across the world to experience the magic of Dhara Devi, Laveena and I planned not to miss out on staying here, especially since we were scheduled to be in Thailand to celebrate New years eve. I reached out to the hotel and connected with Khun Sirikanya (Sarah) Phoocharoen who would be our contact point at the Dhara Devi and who helped plan our stay.
Chiang Mai is located in northern Thailand. It is home to the well known 14th-century Wat Phra Singh and 15th-century Wat Chedi Luang temples and was the former capital of the Kingdom of Lan Na (1296–1768). The city sits astride the Ping River, a major tributary of the Chao Phraya River.
We arrived in Chiang Mai on December the 26th by a local Thai Airways flight. The flying time between Bangkok and Chiang Mai is a short 1hr and 10 minutes. The many holiday makers on our flight were excited about the yearend celebrations and Laveena and I were happy to engage in friendly conversations with our fellow travellers. While many we talked with, mostly European, were travelling to Chiang Mai for the first time, this was our third visit. The first time we stayed in the city, at an old luxury hotel called the Imperial Mae Ping, while on our second visit we were at the fabulous Four Seasons.
The Dhara Devi hotel hostess welcomed us at the arrival hall at the airport and guided us to our vehicle. Our white gloved chauffeur greeted us and we were handed ice-cold lemongrass scented towels as we sat back comfortably for our short journey to the hotel. A quick 20 minutes into our drive, our car steered off the main road onto a quiet side street from where we drove over a small wooden bridge which rumbled when the tires rolled over it. We were told by out hostess that in ancient times the wooden bridge built over a river or a moat, was deliberately engineered to make this loud rumbling sound, in a bid to announce the arrival of guests. Ahead was the gate to the Dhara Devi hotel. As we drove up to the main lobby area, Laveena and I were simply awed by the luxury resort's design, which we were told draws heavily from the architectural and cultural influences of the historic Lanna Kingdom. We were checked in by the lovely Sarah Phoocharoen and were driven in a golf cart to our more than luxurious villa which had a private pool overlooking one of the two private rice fields at the hotel. From our villa, number 99, we could see local rice farmers, employed by the hotel, tending to the rice crop in their blue overalls and their straw sun hats. A few scarecrows added to the ambience and gave us a warm fuzzy feeling of adventure as we looked forward to our 5 day stay at this luxurious piece of paradise in the hills of Northern Thailand.
After settling down in our villa, we decided to step out for an early lunch at the Loy Kham Bar, located by the infinity pool. On our way over to the bar we walked past the Art and Craft village and were told that the Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai, is the only hotel in Chiang Mai that offers guests a regular daily program for art and craft demonstrations which include basket making, bamboo weaving, rice pounding, paper cutting and flower arranging, in a northern Thai style. Not wanting to simply watch, we asked if we could participate in one of the fun programmes. A local craftsman from Chiang Mai skilfully helped us guide our hands back to front, left to right, up and down, until magically, from a simple sheet of coloured paper, a beautifully crafted flower appeared. This little fun craft activity was followed by a chilled beer for me and a tender coconut water for Laveena and a lunch which accentuated the beautiful flavours of Northern Thailand with that kick of chilly and the occasional burst of basil, lemongrass and galangal. We started off with the yamsomo, the pomelo salad with prawns, crispy onions and roasted coconut flakes. In the mains we ordered the phad thai goong, wok-fried rice noodles with shrimps, bean sprouts, bean curd, Chinese chives, peanuts and tamarind sauce. We also had the gaeng kiaw wan nua, sliced beef simmered in fragrant green curry, coconut milk and eggplants, served with steamed organic jasmine rice. We decided to walk back to our room to help digest the heavy meal. The resort, spread across over 60 acres, journeys you back through time. We walked by the Lanna Kids Club which is located in a one-hundred-year-old northern Thai house offering lessons in Thai dancing and music and art and craft. Children also have access to traditional Thai games and toys and can experience rice planting, yoga for kids, paper making and umbrella painting. Fascinated by what we saw we walked a little further and came upon what looked to be a breathtakingly beautiful Burmese temple, with an intricately carved roof and marble stairs. When we asked a waiting buggy driver what the building housed, we were told that the Dhara Devi spa was located in this magnificent building. Laveena and I had a massage booked the next day and we couldn’t wait to explore what the spa had on offer.
We couldn’t stop admiring the property as we finally reached our villa and retired into our bedroom for a quick afternoon nap. Our villa was beautifully designed and wonderfully appointed. We had been informed by Sarah in her impeccable queens english that the stunning villas at the property had mostly been been converted from traditional Northern Thai and Lanna houses. Ours featured a patio at the entrance with a comfortable dining and seating area overlooking the pool, the hot tub and the paddy fields beyond. We had our own sauna and an outdoor covered kitchenette. The villa itself had wooden floors throughout, a vast living space on the ground floor, a large bedroom upstairs with high ceilings and a king bed draped in elegant white muslin. Our private retreat also offered us access to a large walk-in closet, a spacious bathroom and an outdoor balcony with an open air tub and a raised Jacuzzi (the second in our villa). I had decided that my first glass of wine that evening would be on our outdoor balcony, staring out at the rice fields of the lush and grand Dhara Devi.
For Dinner we were booked at the Farang Ses. We had read reviews raving about the food at this restaurant with some labelling it as the finest and most acclaimed French restaurant in all of Thailand. We obviously went in with very high expectations and were immediately enthralled by the opulent and rich french decor which exuded luxury from every corner. From the wine list, I selected a French bordeux, a 2009 chateau carignan. We started the evening with a red quinoa salad with marinated tuna, manchego cheese, dried fruits and beetroot vinaigrette. After our heavy afternoon meal, Laveena and I decided to share the appetiser. For the mains, Laveena ordered the stuffed supreme chicken rolled with prosciutto ham, black organic rice, yellow tomato and celeriac pine nut reduced juice while I had the beef tenderloin rossini with duck foie gras, brioche and truffle sauce. The talent of head chef Stephane Courtin seduced our palates from our very first heavenly bite. His intricate plating style deserved an award, while his high standards of delicious cooking sent us both on a gastronomical journey to Paris in an instant. We feasted and talked and then feasted some more as we listened to a Thai lady pianist whose instrumental renditions that evening included popular old songs, rearrangements of movie soundtracks and easy-listening arrangements of classical music. The evening felt so complete with the best French food we had ever had, outstanding service and what appeared to be a full moon night which illuminated the property through the full length glass windows.
When we returned to our villa that evening we couldn’t resist a swim. Temperatures in December usually dip to 10 degrees or below in the mountains but with global warming, it was actually quite warm at near about 24 degrees and a night swim was perfect.
We slept like babies that night and woke up bright and early the next morning. We walked to breakfast at Akaligo. Translated from Sanskrit, "Akaligo" means timeless. The multi cuisine grand spread of fresh tropical fruits (the sweetest Thai mango, pineapple, papaya, watermelon and musk melon we have ever tasted), a Japanese station, a Chinese station, a Thai station and a fabulous continental station would have impressed even the most discerning of gourmets. What caught my eye was a lady who walked around with a wooden shoulder yoke with a basket on either end, offering foods local to this part of Thailand. I was fascinated with this added touch of theatre, something I hadn’t witnessed before. We were seated by the large windows overlooking the terrace where other residents were seated and the lush landscaped tropical gardens beyond.
After breakfast we walked to the Kad Dhara Shopping Village which is located at the resort. Popular with the affluent locals, it is a small but fascinating village built in the local northern Thai style of the past. Dotted with a a series of shuttered wooden shops, this unique place is home to a number of specialty stores which sell local thai artefacts. There are also a few upscale designer boutiques as well as a coffee corner and the famous Dhara Devi cake shop where despite our heavy breakfast, I couldn’t resist a delicious banana vanilla smoothie with whipped creak and a macaroon. As we sat back to enjoy the sinful sweet treat, some musicians grouped together in the courtyard. While one played the saxophone, the other two strummed on their guitars. The cake shop is neatly nestled within the Kad Dhara Shopping Village. It is a charming Victorian-style tea salon which offers guests a colourful and mouthwateringly delicious selection of macaroons, homemade pastries, cakes and ice cream, smoothies, fine teas and The Dhara Dhevi Blend of coffees. One can sit either indoors in the shop's quaint air-conditioned interior or outside in the picturesque courtyard among lush green palms.
Late that morning we briefly met with Andrew Quinlan, the general manager at the resort. There was an instant connect with this fine and affable gentleman who exuded hospitality from every inch of his being. I was delighted to learn that he had worked very closely with Biki Oberoi and had lived in India for many years. Andrew, being the quintessential hotelier, confidently looked at us and said that we were going to love our experience at Dhara Devi. Laveena responded that we had been at the hotel a little over a day and it already felt like a week as we had done so much and yet it all felt so relaxed, so right, so much like a perfect holiday.
We were invited that afternoon for lunch at the Fujian, an exquisite restaurant located within the Kad Dhara village, serving contemporary and cantonese Chinese. Housed in a two-story mansion built in a typically Sino-Portuguese style dating back to the mid-19th century, the dim sum at this restaurant is legendary. Chinese chef Natcher Choachong designed for us a menu which would have made the emperor of China proud.
We started of with a dim sum platter which was followed by deep fried tiger prawn with spicy salt crust in mashed taro, a sautéed iwate sea scallop with black bean sauce and wok fried rice noodles with beef and yellow chives in a light soya sauce. We were very well looked after by the restaurant manager khun Amnard Phunsupruk who shared with us many interesting stories including the one where he served tennis star Maria Sharapova who absolutely loved the food prepared at Fujian.
Post lunch we were driven in the golf cart to the Jum Sri Hall Library at the hotel. This world-class library houses several thousand volumes of books, including journals and periodicals related to the region's art, culture, cuisine.
We returned to our villa for a nap and decided to spend late afternoon at the gym, burning off all the calories we had consumed on our sinful gastronomic cheat day.
At 7:30 pm we took the hotel shuttle bus into Chiang Mai town and spent a couple of hours on walking street where the shopping is cheap and the flavour truly local. Later we stopped by at a typical street bar where I sipped on a few Chang beers and Laveena ordered her favourite sweet tender coconut.
The next day we had booked ourselves for a rice planting class. Even though common across India, Laveena and I had never actually planted rice. It was exciting as we had the chance to wear the farmers blue overalls and even ride bare back on a water buffalo. Immersed in the local culture we learnt the art of rice planting on the resort's property . It was a fun experience which was followed by a dip in our temperature controlled jacuzzi followed by a swim. I had ordered a sundowner, a Mai Tai which i sipped as we lazed in our pool, infinitely grateful for this remarkable holiday experience.
Later in the afternoon we visited the Dheva spa and wellness centre. Known to be the soul of the resort, we found ourselves surrounded by intricate interiors inspired by a 19th century Mandalay palace. We were in one of the 18 spacious suites where we were treated to one of the most relaxing and rejuvenating massages we have ever had. As the gentle hands of the skilful masseurs caressed our bodies, we felt instantly transported to a special place in paradise with bliss written all over it.
For dinner that evening, we were booked at Le Grand Lanna, a restaurant offering Classic and Northern Thai food. Hidden behind sweeping roofs and centuries-old rain and flame trees, Le Grand Lanna’s raised wooden pavilions were filled with precious Lanna artefacts. When we arrived at the restaurant there was a cultural dance performance underway. The actors were beautifully adorned in traditional outfits and hairstyles. We were treated to a fabulous show. The diverse menu on offer at Le Grand Lanna bridges the cultural divide between Thailand’s north and south; it’s past and present. We chose to dine outside on the terrace which overlooked a delightful tropical garden. Chef Thanu Fufueng cooked us a delicious red curry with beef , stir fried minced pork with chilies and holy basic , stir fried chicken with cashew nuts onions and dried chilies and brown rice. We were attended to by Khun Jarkrit Sunang who made sure my glass of Chateau Carignan Bordeaux was never empty.
The food was so very delicious that we asked to speak with the chef, Khun Thanu. While in conversation with him, the hotel’s food and beverage director, Mr. Jean Marie Vallee introduced himself to us and said that we must visit the Dhara Dhevi Cooking Academy during our stay. In fact he insisted on personally accompanying us on our visit the next day. The cooking school is located on the upper storey of a delightful wooden pavilion behind the Le Grand Lanna Restaurant. We were fascinated to see classroom-style kitchens, fitted with modern equipment with individual cooking stations, extractor hoods, sinks and preparation areas for up to twenty students. Although we didn’t sign up for a class, it is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon at the hotel. Laveena said to the charming Mr.Vallee that the high quality of food standards at the hotel deserved worldwide attention and appreciation as the French, Chinese and Thai food we had eaten at the hotel restaurants were the best ever and all Chef's were deserving of the coveted Australian chef hat awards or Michelin stars.
On our last day at the hotel, we ran into two Hollywood celebrities. Boris Kodjoe and Nicole Ari Parker, hosts of 'The Boris & Nicole Show'. Down to earth and easy to talk too, we got along very well and promised to stay in touch.
We also shopped at the Dhara Devi boutique from where we picked up some souvenirs and silk scarves. They had a fine collection of local jewellery, typical of this region. As we bid our farewells to the many friends we had made at the hotel, we were very sad to leave, but knew that we would return soon to this piece of paradise in the mountains of Chiang Mai. For those among my readers who travel often to South East Asia, as a luxury traveller, I put the Dhara Devi among the very best of the best we have ever experienced. It is a hotel, which each one of you must visit to celebrate a special day in your life. It is an experience you will talk about long after you return home.
Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai
• Location: Google Maps • Address: Tambon Nong Pa Khrang, Amphoe Mueang Chiang Mai, Chang Wat Chiang Mai 50000, Thailand • Hotel website: Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai
Our Rating
- Location: 9/10
- Food and Cuisine: 8/10
- Design: 9/10
- Rooms: 8/10
- Service: 9/10
- Overall experience: 8/10
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