Jaan: A Culinary Odyssey Through Indian Royalty
We embarked on a rather unexpected gastronomical journey, when a friend visiting from San Francisco said to me that he was keen to try Indian cuisine, which he insisted should boast of authentic Mughlai and strong Awadhi flavours. He was quick to add that the meal shouldn’t be too spicy, nor too oily and yet he insisted that while experiencing the food at the restaurant of my choice, he should be transported to a time, way back in history, where he would feel as if his Indian dinner was prepared in the royal kitchens of a Maharajah.
He also said that on his frequent visits to Mumbai over the years, he had already experienced a host of Indian restaurants, names of which he shared with me while requesting most sincerely that the restaurant I eventually decided upon, should not be one he had been to before. Since he happens to be one of my dearest friends and I strongly believe in the Indian phrase Atithi Devo Bhava (Your guest is your God), I decided to take on the challenge and set about researching for any reputable Indian restaurants I may have missed out on, on our many dine-out nights in Mumbai.
Tucked away in an old building in Rampart Row, in Mumbai’s famous Kala Ghoda area, opposite the Jehangir Art Gallery, is the restaurant Jaan. A rare and precious Gem, we were soon to discover. Jaan is the brainchild of the immensely talented, multi faceted, down to earth and very well known Chef Farrokh Khambata who over the years has delighted the discerning palates of millions of Mumbaikars with his restaurants Joss, Amadeus, Izaya and Umame. Winner of innumerable awards, Farrokh is back with his latest launch Jaan, a restaurant which intrigued us from the moment we were directed to an outdoor seating area, on a cozy little terrace (they did offer us the option of dining indoors but we declined), overlooking the magnificent dome of the Prince Of Wales Museum on the left and the Rajabai Clock tower on the right. A rather large Mahogany tree, well over 100 years old and brightly lit, creates a natural leafy chlorophyl canopy for nature loving diners to enjoy. It was a full moon night and there was a very welcome nip in the air. We couldn’t wait to order and after spending time going through an impressive menu, we were served the Lasooni Jingha (garlic prawns). Giant, succulent, perfectly marinated pieces of delicious crustaceans with exciting bursts of balanced flavours started off our evening with our dear friends (we were a table of 6) all of who offered agreeable nods and rather generous thumbs ups to the first lot of starters we were served.
The Mutton Burrah which followed was equally delightful, each delicately charred tender morsel representing reimagined tastes of India’s rich and diverse history and her deep cultural past. Neither of the starters were found to be over spiced but instead brought smiles of approval from our guests who smacked their lips and followed their ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ with eager quips of ‘that was totally yum’ between un-satiated mouthfuls. The Tandoori baby Rawas which followed was simply delectable, imploding in our mouths with a banquet of tastes and flavours and yet again worthy of ample praise. Enough for us to want to capture our experience in eternal couplets. Since none of us were feeling particularly poetic that evening, we called on the waiting staff and asked them to convey our high compliments to the incredibly talented chef in the kitchen.
This is when Farrokh, walked over to our table and asked for our honest opinion about the food. Laveena responded that what we had tasted thus far had a distinct yet recognisable Indian soul. She said the starters were intensely subliminal and deeply focussed on a near ideal mix of spices. She said the food wasn’t oily, yet it was rich and reflective of India’s ancient kitchens. She also said that the fact that we were seated outdoors, with views of iconic historical buildings made the experience special and immersive. We couldn’t have come up with a better description.
Farrokh rather humbly said that we should now prepare to journey through time and imagine that we were walking through the regal corridors of ancient kitchens, as the royal guests of the Maharajahs, waiting to be seated and served at the King’s grand dinner table. He said that his Chef’s use of rose water and saffron and the underlying tastes of open fire like cooking, made his food taste rich and flavourful and this he promised would be generously represented in the main courses we had ordered. The dishes which followed more than lived up to the immensely gifted Mr. Kambhata’s confident promise.
The Dum Biryani with soft, tender pieces of perfectly cooked mutton was sinfully decadent and almost deliberately delicious. And when paired with the rich and creamy Jaan Dal Bukhara, the Aloo Ke Dhanak, the Gucci Dara and the Chandni Murgh, one couldn’t help but imagine how it must have felt to be a guest at a feast for Awadhi Emperors. The Indian breads, flaky, generously buttered and fresh were more than divine. The Masala Kulcha and the Taftaan not only looked appealing but were steaming hot to touch and were by themselves tasty enough to appeal to even the most talented of tandoor roti makers. I reached for the soft pillowy Taftaan, eagerly tore it apart with my hands, watched tiny crumbs drop onto my plate and then I mopped up a generous helping of the chandni murgh. I was instantly in Mughalai heaven. Jaan which means life in Hindi, truly is a place I would recommend all quintessential Indian food lovers to experience while in Mumbai.
When our meal ended, our cravings were not entirely satiated. My San Francisco friend turned to the waiting staff and pointed out to a Pondicherry coffee ice cream from a wide selection of Indian desserts on the menu. The rich velvety ice cream tasted of sheer divinity and each mouth watering lick and bite left us wanting for more as the smooth, thick and perfectly whipped in-house cream creation brought to a remarkably orchestrated end, a dinner which will forever be etched in our culinary minds.
Take a bow Farrokh Khambata. You have yet again proved that you are well deserving of all the attention and accolades you receive as a culinary wizard
